Mt Geryon is situated in the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park and is Tasmania’s 9th highest mountain. The East Face of Mt Geryon is an imposing 450m cliff and hosts some of the biggest climbs in Australia. The first Ascent of Mt Geryon’s East Face was accomplished in 1961 by MUMC members Robert Jones and Bernie Lyons (their account is detailed in The Mountaineer archives). With inclement weather and a solid day’s walk in, Mt Geryon, like many of Tasmania’s impressive mountains, is only infrequently visited by rock climbers.
The initial goal is to climb the original route (11) as a celebration of the first ascensionist’s bold attempt 50 years ago. After gaining familiarity with the mountain and just as importantly the descent, the goal is to complete the prominent vertical line up the centre of the face, Orion (17). Both climbs are around 350m-400m in height offering an exposure of 600m to the valley floor.
The long, wilderness climbs of Mt Geryon offer a different set of challenges to regular Araps or Gramps climbing. Speed, efficiency and route finding are as important as climbing skill to ensure the climb and the difficult descent can be completed in a day.
The expedition wont claim (with any sincerity) any important “Environmental, social and educational implications” as is suggested by the grant. But the trip does aim to celebrate and promote the proud history of the club and remember the ground breaking ascents that were previously done in the club’s name. On a individual level this trip will no doubt be on more adventurous, more remote and on less trodden ground than anything the participants have climbed before. It will bring new skills and experience to those involved.
Mt Geryon, along with the nearby Acropolis and The Labyrinth, incorporate some of the most stunning mountain terrain in the country. As well as adventurous wilderness climbing, this expedition offers fantastic opportunities to produce excellent club promotion media.
This expedition aims to explore a remote climbing area and push current MUMC climbing beyond the domesticated Australian crags that has dominated recent MUMC climbing. The East Face of Mt Geryon does that by offering a long challenging ascent in a spectacular remote wilderness setting.
This is Mt. Acropolis from the Geryon Acropolis saddle
Resting in the Windy Hut terrace...
All with heavy loads